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HEAT TRANSFER PRINTING
What is a Heat Transfer?
This article covers how to make spot color heat transfers and does not cover how to print 4-color process or simulated process color heat transfers.
Basically a heat transfer is made by screen printing plastisol ink on a special release paper. The "transfer" is then applied to a garment or fabric using a heat press that applys pressure and melts the ink so it will bond with the fabric.
The term "hot-peel" or "hot-split" comes from the fact that with these transfers you actually peel the paper off the garment while it is hot. Part of the ink stays on the garment and part of the ink remains on the paper. This gives the print a screen print feel!
A "cold-peel" transfer is made similar to a hot-split except you peel the paper after is has cooled down. The final product has a more rubbery and slick feel to it.
Transfers are great for repeat customers, baseball caps, numbers, names, retail sales, special event shirts, concessions and lots more.
The Paper
There are two general types of paper:
Transfert 75
This is also known as "French Paper" or "T-75" or "Trans- French" is available in 11 x 13 sheets and larger. The cost is approx. 6 to 8 cents per 11 x 13 sheet. It can be printed on either side and is fairly stable and will not shrink too much when printing multi-color designs.
Transfert 55
This paper is also call "soft-trans" and is designed for printing soft-hand "hot split" transfers. It has a longer shelf life than T-75 when using "hot split" plastisol ink.
All papers are available from most screen print supply companies and certain ink companies.
The Ink
Most general plastisols make good cold-peel transfers although if you are going to make a hot-split transfer you will need a plastisol designed for this purpose. Some ink companies make one ink that will work as either a hot-split, cold peel, or direct print ink - all in one! High opacity (white and gold) ink designed for dark shirts does not make very good transfers because the ink will not re-melt properly.
Generally, you should try not to thin down ink for heat transfers. Thick ink is much more desirable and makes a more durable transfer.
The Artwork
Artwork for transfers should not be too detailed. If there is a lot of detail in the artwork, try to put a "backing color" such as white behind the detailed area to hold this ink on the garment. If there is no backing color, it may be necessary to heavy the lines on the artwork.
Artwork for "Hot Split" transfers should not use heavy trapping. Since the ink film splits in half during application, the colors under colors will show through. This is generally a problem with a black outline with loosely cut overlays.
The Screen
Heat transfer screens should be exposed WRONG READING. Although direct emulsion works fine for transfer screens, capillary action direct film is a much better stencil choice because it provides a thicker stencil (for a thicker ink deposit) and has better edge definition for a sharper print with less sawtoothing. If trying to expose a detailed transfer screen, the film positive should be WRONG READING EMULSION SIDE UP.
Recommended Mesh counts:
Cold Peel - 94 - 125 (36 - 50cm) Monofilament
Hot Peel - 86 - 160 (34 - 62cm) Monofilament
The Printing
Heat transfers are printed one-color at a time on either a standard press using spray adhesive to hold paper in place, or on a vacuum table. No, you can't print them wet-on-wet. The ink must be cured between printing. It is common to print all one color and then re- register the print and print all the second color, etc. Transfers should always be printed OFF CONTACT for best print quality. The most popular method of registration is using a 3-point registration system commonly used when printing decals, posters, etc. Simply tape three thin cardboard "stops" (two across the back and one on the side) to your printing or shirt board. Slip each piece of paper to be printed snugly up against these stops before making the print. For additional information on this talk with your local screen print supply company.
Transfers for Caps
A special "Powdered Adhesive" can be applied to the wet transfer ink prior to curing that will help hold the transfer on unusual surfaces such as nylon mesh (not jackets!) and baseball cap fronts. The powder is available in two grades - fine and coarse. For multi-color transfers use the fine powder and apply it after each color OR use the coarse powder and apply it to the last color only. The powder transfers are COLD PEEL ONLY and these transfers should not be used on t-shirts because the ink is not as stretchy. Powdered adhesive is available from most suppliers for approx. $10 per pound. One pound will coat 500 - 1000 11x13 transfer sheets.
The Cure
Plastisol ink on heat transfer paper MUST BE ONLY PARTIALLY CURED or "soft cured." Soft curing happens at around 220 degrees. The soft cure stage is just past the wet point. To find the proper temperature, use paper thermometers to get the proper belt speed or time under the curing unit. If you are not sure, find the point where the transfers come out "wet" and start slowing down the belt or increasing the time under the curing unit until you get just past the wet stage and the ink does not feel wet.
It is HARD to tell the difference between under-cure and full-cure! The best way is to apply the transfer. If it has been under-cured properly then the ink will RE-MELT when you apply it and it will penetrate into the cloth. An overcured transfer (full cure) will not re-melt properly and will sit on top of the garment and can be easily picked off!
On multi-color jobs, there is a potential for overcuring the first colors down. If the job calls for more than four colors, try to put a backing color (white?) behind all the other colors to hold them on even if they are overcured.
Generally, you can get away with a little "over-cure" with a hot- peel transfer. You could even get up to 240 or 260 degrees and they will still work.
Registration Problems
Since transfers are printed one color at a time, the paper is subjected to a number of passes through the dryer. Paper will shrink when it is heated for the first time. This may cause registration problems on multi-color designs. To compensate for this problem, artwork should use heavy trapping around colors if possible. Try not to gang multiple designs on one sheet that fill up the entire sheet (the transfers along the outside edge of the paper will be more out of register than the inside transfers).
The most common solution is to PRE-SHRINK THE PAPER. This can easily be accomplished by running the paper through the dryer first. Simply fan out a stack of paper and run it through on high speed. If the job isn't finished all in the same day, wrap up the transfers in a plastic bag to keep the moisture in the air from being reabsorbed into the paper allowing it to grow to it's original size.
Another solution is to print only one color per day on a multi-color job and allow the transfers to sit out in the air at night to grow back to the original size.
That's it. If you use either Transfert-75 or Trans-Soft, with a general purpose or hot-slit plastisol, printed through 86 monofilament with a wrong-reading screen, and don't cure the ink over 260 degrees you will have made your first heat transfer. It's easy!
Application Times and Temperatures
The application times and temperatures are different for each type of transfer and are VERY important to achieving a quality impression!
COLD PEEL APPLICATION
  • Press-350 - 375 degrees F.
  • Pressure-Heavy
  • Dwell Time -15 seconds
  • After Opening Press - allow transfer to cool for 10 - 30 seconds. Lightly run the paper with a rag or eraser to help cool the ink and press the ink down that may have raised up when the press was opened.
  • Peel the paper

HOT PEEL APPLICATION

  • Press-375 -400 degrees F.
  • Pressure-Heavy
  • Dwell Time -10 seconds
  • After Opening Press - peel the paper away immediately. The ink film will split in half leaving half the ink on the shirt and half on the paper. This will give a print that will have a SOFT FEEL and be identical to a direct screen print!
  • If the print does not split easily - raise the temperature of the press!

POWDERED ADHESIVE COLD PEEL APPLICATION

  • Press-300 degrees
  • Pressure-Very light
  • Dwell Time -10 seconds
  • After Opening Press - allow the transfer to cool as with a regular Cold Peel.
  • Peel the Paper

 





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